Our Journey on Scolamanzi II
Our Journey on Scolamanzi II

Ford’s Terror – The most Beautiful Anchorage yet!


20th May 2016:

What a day! A total sensory overload! We have just left Dawes Glazier and am heading back down Endicott Arm to Ford’s Terror. A very unfortunate name for such beautiful rapids! It is however not to be taken lightly. The entrance can be extremely dangerous with raging currents rushing through its narrow inlet that is only 200 meters long and about 30 meters wide The only time to go through is at high tide, slack water.

It apparently was named in after a crew member of the Patterson who entered the narrows, got caught inside and spent a terrifying six hours until the tide reversed.

It is hard to adequately describe the beauty of Ford’s Terror. The surroundings are spectacular! The translucent turquoise water edged against the most dramatic soaring granite rocks and cliffs with beautiful waterfalls meandering their way down from thousands of meters high mountains. Snow and hanging glaziers on the sides and tops of mountains just adds to some highlights in amongst all the darker shades of green and greys.

We anchored in the northwest arm in an amphitheater like bowl of mountains, cascading waterfalls with a river mouth forming a delta frequented by birds and bears. It was magic to sit in the cockpit, having a wine and dinner and watch the bears grazing in the grass. The sounds of the waterfalls around us, birds calling and then the stillness and remoteness of the bay makes it even more special.

This must have been the most spectacular anchorage yet! The cherry on the cake was the full moon that came up over the mountains at about 10 pm! The glassy water made for the perfect reflection picture you can dream of!

The tender and kayak both had a turn to explore the beautiful inlet. It was one of the hottest days we have had so far and with hardly any wind, it was pretty much warm enough (we thought) to have a swim in the lovely clean turquois water. Johann bravely went in first with a dive and had to swim back to the boat –  he looked cold but I could not quite figure out how much is pretending to scare me … I was never going to dive in – rather a gentle splash and oh my word! It was freezing cold! Refreshing never the less and at least much warmer when you get out!  My first encounter (and probably the last) with the icy waters of Alaska!

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